This paper examines how a group of small-scale handloom producers from India remain competitive and get integrated into global value chains. Using a case study of a buyer-driven handloom value chain, this paper analyses the nature and characteristics of inter-firm relationships, governance, and upgrading practices in the selected handloom value chain. The study shows how these small-scale handloom producers engage with the handloom exporters and other chain participants, including input suppliers and business service providers, and improve their competitiveness. The results indicate the role of inter-firm relations in facilitating joint and collective actions among the chain participants that lead to collective efficiency. The study identifies two pathways of upgrading in the handloom value chain: a governance-driven and a cluster-driven pathway. The findings have implications for value chain interventions aimed at small-scale handloom and similar producers.

Belt, J. and Hellin, J. (2017) ‘Crossfire: Private sector engagement in smallholder value chains’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 6–9 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1CF>.

Bhagavatula, S., Elfring, T., van Tilburg, A. and van de Bunt, G.G. (2010) ‘How social and human capital influence opportunity recognition and resource mobilisation in India’s handloom industry’, Journal of Business Venturing 25(3): 245–60 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusvent.2008.10.006>.

Devoux, A., Torero, M., Donovan, J. and Horton, D. (eds.) (2016) Innovation for Inclusive Value Chain Development: Successes and Challenges, Washington, DC: IFPRI <http://dx.doi.org/10.2499/9780896292130> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Dicken, P., Kelly, P.F., Olds, K. and Yeung, H.W.C. (2001) ‘Chains and networks, territories and scales: Towards a relational framework for analysing the global economy’, Global Network 1(2): 89–112 <https://doi.org/10.1111/1471-0374.00007>.

Dolan, C.S. and Humphrey, J. (2004) ‘Changing governance patterns in the trade in fresh vegetables between Africa and the United Kingdom’, Environment and Planning 36(3): 491–509 <https://doi.org/10.1068/a35281>.

Donovan, J., Stoian, D. and Ferris, S. (2017) ‘Editorial: Towards leaner and more effective value chain development’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1/2): 1–5 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1ED>.

Even, B. and Donovan, J. (2017) ‘Value chain development in Vietnam: a look at approaches used and options for improved impact’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 28–43 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.16-00034>.

Gereffi, G., Humphrey, J. and Sturgeon, T. (2005) ‘The governance of global value chains’, Review of International Political Economy 12(1): 78–104 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743>.

Gereffi, G. and Lee, J. (2016) ‘Economic and social upgrading in global value chains and industrial clusters’, Journal of Business Ethics 133(1): 25–38 <https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-014-2373-7>.

Government of India (GoI) (2016) Annual Report 2014–15, Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi: Government of India.

Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) (2018) ‘Table indicating export of handloom products during 2012–13 to 2016–17’ [web page] <www.hepcindia.com/export-scenario/> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Harper, M., Belt, J. and Roy, R. (2015) Commercial and Inclusive Value Chains: Doing Good and Doing Well, Rugby, UK: Practical Action Publishing <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780448671> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Humphrey, J. and Schmitz, H. (2004) ‘Chain governance and upgrading: taking stock’, in H. Schmitz (ed.), Local Enterprises in the Global Economy: Issues of Governance and Upgrading, Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar, pp. 349–81 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Jones, L. (2011) Value Chains in Development: Emerging Theories and Practice, Rugby, UK: Practical Action <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780446783> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Lane, C. (1997) ‘The social regulation of inter-firm relations in Britain and Germany: market rules, legal norms and technical standards’, Cambridge Journal of Economics 21(2): 197–215 <https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfordjournals.cje.a013666>.

Mamidipudi, A. (2006) ‘Transitioning markets: transcending consumption’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3388–93.

Mamidipudi, A., Syamasundari, B. and Bijker, W. (2012) ‘Mobilising discourses: handlooms as sustainable socio-technology’, Economic and Political Weekly XLVII (25): 41–51.

Miller, L., Dawans, V. and Alter, K. (2009) Industree Craft: A Case Study in Social Enterprise Development Using the Four Lenses Approach [pdf], Virtue Ventures LLC <www.industree.org.in/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Industree-Foundation-Case-Study-%E2%80%93-Skoll-Foundation.pdf> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Modak, S. (2006) ‘Weaving customer’s dreams’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3367–8.

Murthy, V. and Paul, B. (2017) ‘Nature of buyer-supplier relationship: small businesses in a small city’, Journal of Small Business Management 55(3): 365–87 <https://doi.org/10.1111/jsbm.12249>.

Nadvi, K. and Halder, G. (2005) ‘Local clusters in global value chains: exploring dynamic linkages between Germany and Pakistan’, Entrepreneurship and Regional Development 17(5): 339–63 <https://doi.org/10.1080/08985620500247785>.

National Council of Applied Economic Research (NCAER) (2010) Third National Handloom Census of Weavers and Allied Workers-2010, New Delhi: National Council of Applied Economic Research.

Navas-Aleman, L. (2011) ‘The impact of operating in multiple value chains for upgrading: the case of Brazilian furniture and footwear industries’, World Development 39(8): 1386–97 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.12.016>.

Norris, L. (2013) ‘Aesthetics and ethics: upgrading textile production in northern Kerala’, Geoforum 50: 221–31 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2013.09.006>.

Pietrobelli, C. and Rabelloti, R. (2011) ‘Global value chains meet innovation systems: are there learning opportunities for developing countries?’ World Development 39(7): 1261–9 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.05.013>.

Porter, M.E. (1985) Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance, New York: The Free Press.

Raghavan, P. (1995) Dynamics of Industrial Co-operatives: A Study of Traditional Industries in Kerala, thesis submitted to the Jawaharlal Nehru University, Centre for Development Studies, Thiruvananthapuram, India.

Ramachandran, J., Pant, A. and Pani, S.K. (2010) ‘Building the BOP producer eco-system: the evolving engagement of Fabindia with Indian handloom artisans’, Journal of Product Innovation Management 29(1): 33–51 <https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1540-5885.2011.00877.x>.

Ray, S., Mukherjee, P. and Mehra, M. (2016) Upgrading in the Indian Garment Industry: A Study of Three Clusters, Manila: Asian Development Bank <https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/183908/sawp-043.pdf> [accessed 6 June 2018].

Reji, E.M. (2013) ‘Value chains for integrating small producers into markets: small-scale organic turmeric processing enterprises in Odisha’, Journal of Business Strategy 10(2): 38–49.

Schreier, M. (2012) Qualitative Content Analysis in Practice, London: Sage.

Stockbridge, M., Dorward, A., Kydd, J., Morrison, J. and Poole, N. (2003) Farmer Organisation for Market Access: Issues from Literature Review on Global Experiences and Theoretical Analysis, London: Department of Agriculture, Imperial College of London.

Stoian, D., Donovan, J., Fisk, J. and Muldon, M.F. (2012) ‘Value chain development for rural poverty reduction: a reality check and warning’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 23(1): 54–69 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2012.006>.

Webber, C.M. and Labste, P. (2010) Building Competitiveness in Africa’s Agriculture: A Guide to Value Chain Concepts and Applications, Washington, DC: World Bank.

Yin, R.K. (2009) Case Study Research: Design and Methods, New Delhi: Sage Publications.

Belt, J. and Hellin, J. (2017) ‘Crossfire: Private sector engagement in smallholder value chains’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 6–9 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1CF>.

Bhagavatula, S., Elfring, T., van Tilburg, A. and van de Bunt, G.G. (2010) ‘How social and human capital influence opportunity recognition and resource mobilisation in India’s handloom industry’, Journal of Business Venturing 25(3): 245–60 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusvent.2008.10.006>.

Devoux, A., Torero, M., Donovan, J. and Horton, D. (eds.) (2016) Innovation for Inclusive Value Chain Development: Successes and Challenges, Washington, DC: IFPRI <http://dx.doi.org/10.2499/9780896292130> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Dicken, P., Kelly, P.F., Olds, K. and Yeung, H.W.C. (2001) ‘Chains and networks, territories and scales: Towards a relational framework for analysing the global economy’, Global Network 1(2): 89–112 <https://doi.org/10.1111/1471-0374.00007>.

Dolan, C.S. and Humphrey, J. (2004) ‘Changing governance patterns in the trade in fresh vegetables between Africa and the United Kingdom’, Environment and Planning 36(3): 491–509 <https://doi.org/10.1068/a35281>.

Donovan, J., Stoian, D. and Ferris, S. (2017) ‘Editorial: Towards leaner and more effective value chain development’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1/2): 1–5 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1ED>.

Even, B. and Donovan, J. (2017) ‘Value chain development in Vietnam: a look at approaches used and options for improved impact’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 28–43 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.16-00034>.

Gereffi, G., Humphrey, J. and Sturgeon, T. (2005) ‘The governance of global value chains’, Review of International Political Economy 12(1): 78–104 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743>.

Gereffi, G. and Lee, J. (2016) ‘Economic and social upgrading in global value chains and industrial clusters’, Journal of Business Ethics 133(1): 25–38 <https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-014-2373-7>.

Government of India (GoI) (2016) Annual Report 2014–15, Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi: Government of India.

Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) (2018) ‘Table indicating export of handloom products during 2012–13 to 2016–17’ [web page] <www.hepcindia.com/export-scenario/> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Harper, M., Belt, J. and Roy, R. (2015) Commercial and Inclusive Value Chains: Doing Good and Doing Well, Rugby, UK: Practical Action Publishing <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780448671> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Humphrey, J. and Schmitz, H. (2004) ‘Chain governance and upgrading: taking stock’, in H. Schmitz (ed.), Local Enterprises in the Global Economy: Issues of Governance and Upgrading, Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar, pp. 349–81 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Jones, L. (2011) Value Chains in Development: Emerging Theories and Practice, Rugby, UK: Practical Action <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780446783> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Lane, C. (1997) ‘The social regulation of inter-firm relations in Britain and Germany: market rules, legal norms and technical standards’, Cambridge Journal of Economics 21(2): 197–215 <https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfordjournals.cje.a013666>.

Mamidipudi, A. (2006) ‘Transitioning markets: transcending consumption’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3388–93.

Mamidipudi, A., Syamasundari, B. and Bijker, W. (2012) ‘Mobilising discourses: handlooms as sustainable socio-technology’, Economic and Political Weekly XLVII (25): 41–51.

Miller, L., Dawans, V. and Alter, K. (2009) Industree Craft: A Case Study in Social Enterprise Development Using the Four Lenses Approach [pdf], Virtue Ventures LLC <www.industree.org.in/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Industree-Foundation-Case-Study-%E2%80%93-Skoll-Foundation.pdf> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Modak, S. (2006) ‘Weaving customer’s dreams’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3367–8.

Murthy, V. and Paul, B. (2017) ‘Nature of buyer-supplier relationship: small businesses in a small city’, Journal of Small Business Management 55(3): 365–87 <https://doi.org/10.1111/jsbm.12249>.

Nadvi, K. and Halder, G. (2005) ‘Local clusters in global value chains: exploring dynamic linkages between Germany and Pakistan’, Entrepreneurship and Regional Development 17(5): 339–63 <https://doi.org/10.1080/08985620500247785>.

National Council of Applied Economic Research (NCAER) (2010) Third National Handloom Census of Weavers and Allied Workers-2010, New Delhi: National Council of Applied Economic Research.

Navas-Aleman, L. (2011) ‘The impact of operating in multiple value chains for upgrading: the case of Brazilian furniture and footwear industries’, World Development 39(8): 1386–97 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.12.016>.

Norris, L. (2013) ‘Aesthetics and ethics: upgrading textile production in northern Kerala’, Geoforum 50: 221–31 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2013.09.006>.

Pietrobelli, C. and Rabelloti, R. (2011) ‘Global value chains meet innovation systems: are there learning opportunities for developing countries?’ World Development 39(7): 1261–9 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.05.013>.

Porter, M.E. (1985) Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance, New York: The Free Press.

Raghavan, P. (1995) Dynamics of Industrial Co-operatives: A Study of Traditional Industries in Kerala, thesis submitted to the Jawaharlal Nehru University, Centre for Development Studies, Thiruvananthapuram, India.

Ramachandran, J., Pant, A. and Pani, S.K. (2010) ‘Building the BOP producer eco-system: the evolving engagement of Fabindia with Indian handloom artisans’, Journal of Product Innovation Management 29(1): 33–51 <https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1540-5885.2011.00877.x>.

Ray, S., Mukherjee, P. and Mehra, M. (2016) Upgrading in the Indian Garment Industry: A Study of Three Clusters, Manila: Asian Development Bank <https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/183908/sawp-043.pdf> [accessed 6 June 2018].

Reji, E.M. (2013) ‘Value chains for integrating small producers into markets: small-scale organic turmeric processing enterprises in Odisha’, Journal of Business Strategy 10(2): 38–49.

Schreier, M. (2012) Qualitative Content Analysis in Practice, London: Sage.

Stockbridge, M., Dorward, A., Kydd, J., Morrison, J. and Poole, N. (2003) Farmer Organisation for Market Access: Issues from Literature Review on Global Experiences and Theoretical Analysis, London: Department of Agriculture, Imperial College of London.

Stoian, D., Donovan, J., Fisk, J. and Muldon, M.F. (2012) ‘Value chain development for rural poverty reduction: a reality check and warning’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 23(1): 54–69 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2012.006>.

Webber, C.M. and Labste, P. (2010) Building Competitiveness in Africa’s Agriculture: A Guide to Value Chain Concepts and Applications, Washington, DC: World Bank.

Yin, R.K. (2009) Case Study Research: Design and Methods, New Delhi: Sage Publications.

Belt, J. and Hellin, J. (2017) ‘Crossfire: Private sector engagement in smallholder value chains’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 6–9 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1CF>.

Bhagavatula, S., Elfring, T., van Tilburg, A. and van de Bunt, G.G. (2010) ‘How social and human capital influence opportunity recognition and resource mobilisation in India’s handloom industry’, Journal of Business Venturing 25(3): 245–60 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusvent.2008.10.006>.

Devoux, A., Torero, M., Donovan, J. and Horton, D. (eds.) (2016) Innovation for Inclusive Value Chain Development: Successes and Challenges, Washington, DC: IFPRI <http://dx.doi.org/10.2499/9780896292130> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Dicken, P., Kelly, P.F., Olds, K. and Yeung, H.W.C. (2001) ‘Chains and networks, territories and scales: Towards a relational framework for analysing the global economy’, Global Network 1(2): 89–112 <https://doi.org/10.1111/1471-0374.00007>.

Dolan, C.S. and Humphrey, J. (2004) ‘Changing governance patterns in the trade in fresh vegetables between Africa and the United Kingdom’, Environment and Planning 36(3): 491–509 <https://doi.org/10.1068/a35281>.

Donovan, J., Stoian, D. and Ferris, S. (2017) ‘Editorial: Towards leaner and more effective value chain development’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1/2): 1–5 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1ED>.

Even, B. and Donovan, J. (2017) ‘Value chain development in Vietnam: a look at approaches used and options for improved impact’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 28–43 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.16-00034>.

Gereffi, G., Humphrey, J. and Sturgeon, T. (2005) ‘The governance of global value chains’, Review of International Political Economy 12(1): 78–104 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743>.

Gereffi, G. and Lee, J. (2016) ‘Economic and social upgrading in global value chains and industrial clusters’, Journal of Business Ethics 133(1): 25–38 <https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-014-2373-7>.

Government of India (GoI) (2016) Annual Report 2014–15, Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi: Government of India.

Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) (2018) ‘Table indicating export of handloom products during 2012–13 to 2016–17’ [web page] <www.hepcindia.com/export-scenario/> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Harper, M., Belt, J. and Roy, R. (2015) Commercial and Inclusive Value Chains: Doing Good and Doing Well, Rugby, UK: Practical Action Publishing <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780448671> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Humphrey, J. and Schmitz, H. (2004) ‘Chain governance and upgrading: taking stock’, in H. Schmitz (ed.), Local Enterprises in the Global Economy: Issues of Governance and Upgrading, Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar, pp. 349–81 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Jones, L. (2011) Value Chains in Development: Emerging Theories and Practice, Rugby, UK: Practical Action <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780446783> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Lane, C. (1997) ‘The social regulation of inter-firm relations in Britain and Germany: market rules, legal norms and technical standards’, Cambridge Journal of Economics 21(2): 197–215 <https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfordjournals.cje.a013666>.

Mamidipudi, A. (2006) ‘Transitioning markets: transcending consumption’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3388–93.

Mamidipudi, A., Syamasundari, B. and Bijker, W. (2012) ‘Mobilising discourses: handlooms as sustainable socio-technology’, Economic and Political Weekly XLVII (25): 41–51.

Miller, L., Dawans, V. and Alter, K. (2009) Industree Craft: A Case Study in Social Enterprise Development Using the Four Lenses Approach [pdf], Virtue Ventures LLC <www.industree.org.in/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Industree-Foundation-Case-Study-%E2%80%93-Skoll-Foundation.pdf> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Modak, S. (2006) ‘Weaving customer’s dreams’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3367–8.

Murthy, V. and Paul, B. (2017) ‘Nature of buyer-supplier relationship: small businesses in a small city’, Journal of Small Business Management 55(3): 365–87 <https://doi.org/10.1111/jsbm.12249>.

Nadvi, K. and Halder, G. (2005) ‘Local clusters in global value chains: exploring dynamic linkages between Germany and Pakistan’, Entrepreneurship and Regional Development 17(5): 339–63 <https://doi.org/10.1080/08985620500247785>.

National Council of Applied Economic Research (NCAER) (2010) Third National Handloom Census of Weavers and Allied Workers-2010, New Delhi: National Council of Applied Economic Research.

Navas-Aleman, L. (2011) ‘The impact of operating in multiple value chains for upgrading: the case of Brazilian furniture and footwear industries’, World Development 39(8): 1386–97 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.12.016>.

Norris, L. (2013) ‘Aesthetics and ethics: upgrading textile production in northern Kerala’, Geoforum 50: 221–31 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2013.09.006>.

Pietrobelli, C. and Rabelloti, R. (2011) ‘Global value chains meet innovation systems: are there learning opportunities for developing countries?’ World Development 39(7): 1261–9 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.05.013>.

Porter, M.E. (1985) Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance, New York: The Free Press.

Raghavan, P. (1995) Dynamics of Industrial Co-operatives: A Study of Traditional Industries in Kerala, thesis submitted to the Jawaharlal Nehru University, Centre for Development Studies, Thiruvananthapuram, India.

Ramachandran, J., Pant, A. and Pani, S.K. (2010) ‘Building the BOP producer eco-system: the evolving engagement of Fabindia with Indian handloom artisans’, Journal of Product Innovation Management 29(1): 33–51 <https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1540-5885.2011.00877.x>.

Ray, S., Mukherjee, P. and Mehra, M. (2016) Upgrading in the Indian Garment Industry: A Study of Three Clusters, Manila: Asian Development Bank <https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/183908/sawp-043.pdf> [accessed 6 June 2018].

Reji, E.M. (2013) ‘Value chains for integrating small producers into markets: small-scale organic turmeric processing enterprises in Odisha’, Journal of Business Strategy 10(2): 38–49.

Schreier, M. (2012) Qualitative Content Analysis in Practice, London: Sage.

Stockbridge, M., Dorward, A., Kydd, J., Morrison, J. and Poole, N. (2003) Farmer Organisation for Market Access: Issues from Literature Review on Global Experiences and Theoretical Analysis, London: Department of Agriculture, Imperial College of London.

Stoian, D., Donovan, J., Fisk, J. and Muldon, M.F. (2012) ‘Value chain development for rural poverty reduction: a reality check and warning’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 23(1): 54–69 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2012.006>.

Webber, C.M. and Labste, P. (2010) Building Competitiveness in Africa’s Agriculture: A Guide to Value Chain Concepts and Applications, Washington, DC: World Bank.

Yin, R.K. (2009) Case Study Research: Design and Methods, New Delhi: Sage Publications.

Belt, J. and Hellin, J. (2017) ‘Crossfire: Private sector engagement in smallholder value chains’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 6–9 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1CF>.

Bhagavatula, S., Elfring, T., van Tilburg, A. and van de Bunt, G.G. (2010) ‘How social and human capital influence opportunity recognition and resource mobilisation in India’s handloom industry’, Journal of Business Venturing 25(3): 245–60 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusvent.2008.10.006>.

Devoux, A., Torero, M., Donovan, J. and Horton, D. (eds.) (2016) Innovation for Inclusive Value Chain Development: Successes and Challenges, Washington, DC: IFPRI <http://dx.doi.org/10.2499/9780896292130> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Dicken, P., Kelly, P.F., Olds, K. and Yeung, H.W.C. (2001) ‘Chains and networks, territories and scales: Towards a relational framework for analysing the global economy’, Global Network 1(2): 89–112 <https://doi.org/10.1111/1471-0374.00007>.

Dolan, C.S. and Humphrey, J. (2004) ‘Changing governance patterns in the trade in fresh vegetables between Africa and the United Kingdom’, Environment and Planning 36(3): 491–509 <https://doi.org/10.1068/a35281>.

Donovan, J., Stoian, D. and Ferris, S. (2017) ‘Editorial: Towards leaner and more effective value chain development’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1/2): 1–5 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.2017.28-1ED>.

Even, B. and Donovan, J. (2017) ‘Value chain development in Vietnam: a look at approaches used and options for improved impact’, Enterprise Development and Microfinance 28(1&2): 28–43 <https://doi.org/10.3362/1755-1986.16-00034>.

Gereffi, G., Humphrey, J. and Sturgeon, T. (2005) ‘The governance of global value chains’, Review of International Political Economy 12(1): 78–104 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743>.

Gereffi, G. and Lee, J. (2016) ‘Economic and social upgrading in global value chains and industrial clusters’, Journal of Business Ethics 133(1): 25–38 <https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-014-2373-7>.

Government of India (GoI) (2016) Annual Report 2014–15, Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi: Government of India.

Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) (2018) ‘Table indicating export of handloom products during 2012–13 to 2016–17’ [web page] <www.hepcindia.com/export-scenario/> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Harper, M., Belt, J. and Roy, R. (2015) Commercial and Inclusive Value Chains: Doing Good and Doing Well, Rugby, UK: Practical Action Publishing <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780448671> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Humphrey, J. and Schmitz, H. (2004) ‘Chain governance and upgrading: taking stock’, in H. Schmitz (ed.), Local Enterprises in the Global Economy: Issues of Governance and Upgrading, Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar, pp. 349–81 <https://doi.org/10.4337/9781843769743> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Jones, L. (2011) Value Chains in Development: Emerging Theories and Practice, Rugby, UK: Practical Action <https://doi.org/10.3362/9781780446783> [accessed 2 July 2018].

Lane, C. (1997) ‘The social regulation of inter-firm relations in Britain and Germany: market rules, legal norms and technical standards’, Cambridge Journal of Economics 21(2): 197–215 <https://doi.org/10.1093/oxfordjournals.cje.a013666>.

Mamidipudi, A. (2006) ‘Transitioning markets: transcending consumption’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3388–93.

Mamidipudi, A., Syamasundari, B. and Bijker, W. (2012) ‘Mobilising discourses: handlooms as sustainable socio-technology’, Economic and Political Weekly XLVII (25): 41–51.

Miller, L., Dawans, V. and Alter, K. (2009) Industree Craft: A Case Study in Social Enterprise Development Using the Four Lenses Approach [pdf], Virtue Ventures LLC <www.industree.org.in/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Industree-Foundation-Case-Study-%E2%80%93-Skoll-Foundation.pdf> [accessed 5 July 2018].

Modak, S. (2006) ‘Weaving customer’s dreams’, Economic and Political Weekly 41(31): 3367–8.

Murthy, V. and Paul, B. (2017) ‘Nature of buyer-supplier relationship: small businesses in a small city’, Journal of Small Business Management 55(3): 365–87 <https://doi.org/10.1111/jsbm.12249>.

Nadvi, K. and Halder, G. (2005) ‘Local clusters in global value chains: exploring dynamic linkages between Germany and Pakistan’, Entrepreneurship and Regional Development 17(5): 339–63 <https://doi.org/10.1080/08985620500247785>.

National Council of Applied Economic Research (NCAER) (2010) Third National Handloom Census of Weavers and Allied Workers-2010, New Delhi: National Council of Applied Economic Research.

Navas-Aleman, L. (2011) ‘The impact of operating in multiple value chains for upgrading: the case of Brazilian furniture and footwear industries’, World Development 39(8): 1386–97 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.12.016>.

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Pietrobelli, C. and Rabelloti, R. (2011) ‘Global value chains meet innovation systems: are there learning opportunities for developing countries?’ World Development 39(7): 1261–9 <https://doi.org/10.1016/j.worlddev.2010.05.013>.

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